I Should Have Known Better

It was an amazing Saturday Morning...no wind, smooth water, 4-6 foot surf, 5 guys out, sunny and warm. I hit the water at about an hour after sunrise and headed for buoys 1 and 2 at the Pearl Harbor channel. The down-winder for today didn't pan out, so I was going to get some surfing in. I passed a paddler heading in at about the half way point, who warned me about going to far past the harbor entrance buoys. There was something dead in the water, and he saw some thrashing. He said that Harbor Patrol was out looking to keep everybody safe, but that there was plenty of good surf closer inside. Roger, stay inside, surf, survive thrashing sharks. Easy day right? Wrong, about an hour and a half later, this really nice set wave bowls up behind me, and jacks up to about 7 feet. I put the paddle in forward and left, sweeping out to turn to starboard...here's where the fun starts. The wave, pushed my board with me still on it somehow through my carbon paddle! It was like slow motion, I saw the blade catch, the shaft flex and heard it snap! I wish I could tell you I somehow caught that wave, but no, instead I went for a ride in the wash, got back to my board, then went shopping for parts. I did get my pieces back, and OC-1'd it 500 yds or so back to the beach. I guess I should have turned back and headed in when I heard about the sharks, but I would have missed the guy in the kayak out there, or the really nice rides the other few paddlers were getting. Anyways, go paddle, be sure to keep a spare paddle in close range, and stay safe out there!