Friday, April 10, 2009

Falling = Learning...

I got a chance to leave a few minutes early from work earlier in the week, and took the opportunity to gets some water time. I put a new deck pad on the 11-6 this last weekend, and was ready to get wet. The local break, was chop city. The wind was 10- 14 knots, super bumpy and I still haven't got the place wired. I struggled a lot, I fell all over the place, couldn't keep my balance, was a human sail, and was off the board more than on it. Another, lone paddler cruised by to wave, and see how I was doing. I said "slow". Honestly, I was a little embarrassed. He said "You learn something every-time you fall." He couldn't be more correct. He made some comments on feet positioning and told me to keep charging. He paddled of into the lineup and took a handful of amazing rides and headed in. I didn't ask his name, but I will remember his board, and will remember to say thanks for the stoke next time I paddle out . I sat a few minutes, watched the ocean as I thought about the advice I had just been given. I got up paddled hard cross wind, and caught a bump, and almost had the wave it turned into. I took that as a mini success and headed in playing on the inside on some calf biters before packing it up. It was not my best day in the water, I had been doing much better lately, but that's OK. I was stoked to watch a good paddler get some great rides, get some encouragement, free advice and play in the ocean. Now, I need to get some downwind time in, play in the waves, increase my balance, and strength, and just have fun. Maybe next time I'll rock my Red Sox cap out in the water. I wore it while I was out to sea in 2004, and in 2007. It's has good luck, I swear, and after today, I need a little luck.

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